Ofer and I checked into a cute little hotel in Kaanapali, Maui with a back porch leading to a path that took us right to a view of the ocean. There was a boardwalk that stretched a few miles separating the beach from the back of the hotels peppered with restaurants, pools, bars and shops. It seemed that everywhere we went we heard the Hawaiian version of “Somewhere Over the Rainbow”. I’m sure that the sound of the ukulele will always remind us of our engagement.


We signed up to attend a Luau while we were there despite being told that the best Luau was in Honolulu, we didn’t want to wait that long to get into the proper Hawaiian mood. The Luau was beautiful; first we had a master of ceremonies come up to introduce the band and to announce the unveiling of the Kalua Pig. I was not pleased with the site.


Then they brought about 30 women, including myself, on stage to learn a quick hula dance. Unlimited drinks were served and Ofer and I took full advantage of the free-flowing Mai Tais’. Then we were released to the buffet. There was chicken, salads, fruit, pulled pork, beef and dinner rolls. It was delicious; I hadn’t remembered Kalua Pig being so good, wow.

Then the show began. There was a group of 5 women and 5 men who were performing traditional and non-traditional hula dances from different locals. We could have sworn that one couple was imported from Israel! The weather was incredible, we were still enjoying our meals and the dancing and music were exactly what we needed to feel like we were really in Hawaii. The show must have lasted an hour or so and included at least 10 costume changes and of course a finale complete with both the men and women twirling fire batons. It was a beautiful Luau and we left giggling with full bellies. It was starting to sink in a little more that we were really here.







The next morning we rented a car and started down the winding road to Hana. We first hit a few trails that led through some heavy forests to a waterfall. The jump seemed a little far so Ofer decided to wait for the next one to make the plunge.



Next we came across the Bamboo Forrest. We expected there was going to be a large sign for the tourists directing us along some pre-beaten path but instead we just saw cars parked and a part of a metal fence pulled down low enough to step over. We saw a couple getting into their cars and asked them if we had arrived and they told us that we had and that it was best to really focus on the paths we take, that it is like a maze and we will quickly lose orientation.

The Forrest was incredible. It started off with tall thin bamboo shoots reaching up toward the sky. As we ventured in further the bamboo got thicker and taller. Some were as thick as Ofer’s leg. There were paths heading in every direction but we tried to stay on the largest paths as we headed deeper into the Forrest. We crossed a river on a tiny, shaky 2x4 and continued on our way.



The sounds in the Forrest made us stop in our tracks. We stood surrounded by the thicker bamboo that must have stretched at least 30 feet above our heads. As the wind leisurely blew through the area it would push the bamboo in different directions. Watching above us was like watching ripples of water traveling across a calm pond.

In ever which way, right above us and off in the distance it sounded like the faint creek of an old floor or a wooden door slowly creaking open. I thought to myself that this should be one of the sounds offered on a sound machine along with ocean waves, frogs and whales. It was such a gentle, natural, soothing sound. We stood there for a bit to appreciate the expanse we were surrounded by. We sat a few times along different streams to take in the view. I was shocked to see a view of what the tops of the bamboo looked like all bunched together. What a site. I wanted to run my hand along the tops of them; it looked so soft like your favorite childhood blanket.

Ok enough of the beauty. Ofer was now ready to prove his manhood. We continued to walk along a path but we could hear the stream close on our left side. The water became louder and louder and we came upon a waterfall. In 2.5 seconds Ofer’s shirt, shoes, hat, sunglasses and watch were off and he was in the water. I’m glad that he still loves this stuff even though I very rarely venture in with him. He walked gingerly into the water careful not to slip on the moss growing on the wet rocks below him. He floated and swam for a bit. Ofer loves everything about waterfalls and every time we see one that seems safe he has to do everything he possibly can with it. Generally this includes jumping off of it and sitting under it. If he had a chance (and I wasn’t shaking my head vehemently at him) I’m sure he would climb up those slippery rocks and do them over and over in sequence. I think he jumped this one waterfall at least 3 times. I always get a little nervous every time he flails himself off the cliff but the second he emerges from the water he always gives me a thumbs up right away to let me know he is fine.









We successfully made it back to the car following some of the road markers we had left and continued heading toward Hana. We saw a sign on the side of the road that pointed us to ‘The Garden of Eden”. We decided to check it out. The first thing we came across was a large group of geese-like looking animals. There were a few signs stating “The birds will not move if you honk, don’t try” and “Feed the animal for $0.25”. We stopped and moved toward the bird-feed dispenser. Usually birds move away from you as you walk toward them and once you have food they inch in and nip at the food as quickly as possible….not these birds. Once we stepped out of our car they started moving toward us. The closer they got the weirder and weirder they were. First their tail feathers started wagging from side to side as they continued walking our way. I swear it was like “Night of the Living Dead”. These huge white and black bodies with crazy eyes walking toward us as if we had just stolen their first-born. Then the heavy breathing began. They sounded like a mix between childhood asthma and Darth Vader. It sounded like a hyperventilating de-barked dog. And it freaked us out. They were so determined to come right to us with mouths snapping that I literally ran in the opposite direction up a hill. Ofer was quick on my heels.







Once up there we noticed a peacock. We had already seen females below but this one was male, it’s feathers all folded in, slowly surveying its new visitors. My inner child kicked in and I got as close as I could to the peacock. I don’t know if it was me or the female peacock that was walking up the hill but he fluffed out his feathers into their full expanse. We got our camera out as quickly as possible hoping not to miss the moment. He turned around in circles a few times testing our ability with our new camera to try to catch the brilliant colors in motion. Then, with the female behind him he started his mating dance (Ofer took notes). First he started backing up toward the female shaking his tail feathers like the geese we had just seen (although not as scary). As he got closer to the female he then started vibrating….seriously. His feathers vibrated like one of those tiny, personal plastic fans you buy at Disney World. It was incredible, we were shocked and amazing at what we were witnessing. This went on for about 15 minutes. He made a few more circles and vibrated a few more times. Garden of Eden indeed.

We feel we are living in an incomprehensible world. It is hard to imagine that we have left our families, friends, homes, routines and are embarking on such a trip. As of now we still feel like we are on a tropical vacation of which we should be counting the days until we head home. But home, for the next 19 months will be exactly where ever we are at that moment. What a concept. New beds, new faces, new foods, new challenges every day. What an incredible gift to be able to explore the world in this way together. That is the other incomprehensible thing. Together forever. We have chosen each other. From every other we have ever met to anyone we will ever meet we have chosen us. So many times a day I catch myself looking at Ofer and realizing as if for the first time, “This man is going to be my husband”. He will be at the end of the aisle on our wedding day, he will be holding my hand as I bring our children into the world, he will be the one to watch my face change as we grow together. Incomprehensible and perfect, I couldn’t imagine being happier than I am now.

The last week in San Francisco we spent moving things to storage, packing our suitcases and saying goodbye to our local loved ones. Day one came quicker than we could have anticipated and the largest carry-ons that we had purchased were looking smaller and smaller.

The first travel leg of the trip made us realize that we will be literally carrying everything on our backs. You start realizing that you don’t have a problem with your things being disposable as you try to lift your 56 pound ‘carry-on’ into the overhead compartment.








We spent our layover in Honolulu on our way to Lanai at a cute little Airport restaurant. Ofer had a few drinks (now I know it was to ease the engagement day jitters) and I played with our first fruity drink umbrella....soon after Ofer had enough drinks in him to participate.



With our new camera in hand we were quick to make fun of every sign we saw. I have a feeling this will be a theme of the trip!

Our trip started in Lanai. This was, of course, the location of our engagement on day 1. We stayed in a beautiful resort at Manale Bay.



We spent only two nights in Lanai and most of our time was spent at the pool, beach and looking at my ring ;). It’s my ring at the ocean, it’s my ring at dinner, it’s my ring by this amazing flower, it’s my ring at the gym, it’s my ring on the bus...I wonder how long this phase will last. We lounged as if it were our jobs. I thought I would get bored and would need things to do, but nope, I was incredibly pleased to lay around like a bum, taking the occasional dip in the pool and nap.



We took a few hours to go to the beach with some snorkel gear provided by the hotel. Ofer went right in like a champ and swam around for a while seeing some of the first tropical fish we will be viewing on the trip. I stayed back to watch our newly purchased Cannon Rebel camera and to call my nearest and dearest friends and family to tell them about the engagement. I loved retelling the story and I felt so much love and joy from everyone we told.

Then it was my turn to head to the ocean as Ofer stayed back with the camera. It has to be said that water and I are not the closest of friends. I get thrashed around in water, it goes up my nose, down my throat, it makes me sea sick, it brings fish and leeches to nip at me. But dammit if I wasn’t going to give it my best shot. With snorkel and flippers in hand I hit the water. Soon after the water hit back.

I got all the way in but was having trouble mastering the gear without having a buddy in the water with me so I decided to call it a day and head back in, proud that at least I had gotten all the way in the ocean and didn’t wimp out at knee level which I usually do. The water was not pleased with this. I was then thrown around in the waves for the next while. My gear was forced of my hands and as I searched in vain for them there came another wave to knock me down. And just at that moment I realized that my lovely new fiance had been documenting the entire endeavor. Classy bride I was not. Water: 1, Shayna: Nuthin.



We met the sweetest couple the day after the engagement; Ross and Lisa. They were taking a much deserved vacation, just the two of them, as their incredibly adorable little girl was home in good hands with their families. We spend a lot of our time with Ross and Lisa, the men talking shop and the ladies talked about engagements, weddings and babies. Suffice to say we were both on cloud nine.

The boys were a great match as they headed off into the ocean in search of a group of dolphins that had been hanging around the beach outside the resort. They must of have stayed out in the water for at least 45 minutes. They swam from one end of the shore to the other as Lisa and I kept an eye on them talking about all the reasons why we would do nothing of the sort ourselves (unknown ocean life below us, rip tides, jagged coral) I knew that Ofer has been a swimmer for a long time and I had seen him swim many times before but I was impressed at both Ofer and Ross’s ability to swim in the ocean for so long without seeming the least bit exhausted. Ross and Lisa were a wonderfully down to earth, engaging and loving couple. We genuinely hope we will see them again and are planning on keeping tabs on where they are in their lives.



After our two days on the serene island of Lanai, Ofer and I took a boat to our second destination: Maui.

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Ofer sure knows how to start off a 19-month trip right. Our first destination was was Lanai, Hawaii; a tiny secluded island owned by one man with only two major hotels (both of which are Four Seasons). After taking a dip in the pool Ofer suggested that we get ready for dinner. I mentioned that I wanted to work out before dinner and he said that seeing as it was the first day of this incredible trip why don’t we just take it easy, have an early dinner and celebrate this big day. I certainly wasn’t going to disagree!

After getting ready we started walking toward the resort restaurant but instead Ofer said that the hotel concierge was going to walk us there. I didn’t think much of it until the concierge started offering to take our picture all over the resort but I thought, “Hey, It’s a small island, maybe she doesn’t have that much to do”.

She began leading us in the opposite direction of the restaurant and just when I started to ask Ofer where she was taking us we rounded a corner. There, on the cliff over-looking the ocean was a gazebo with a man playing a ukelele and another man holding champagne and leis. I looked at Ofer as if to ask if we were walking past this gazebo or to it and he held my hand tightly and I knew that this was all there for the two of us. I immediately started crying.

After we were seated Ofer took my hand and started to say what a big step it was for us to take this trip together and that he wanted to make sure that we celebrated such a momentous occasion.






Then he began telling me about why he loved me and why he felt lucky to have me in his world. Then he said, “We have been talking a lot about Having Dessert First and that ‘dessert’ is the trip. But, for me ‘dessert’ is not the trip, the ‘dessert’ is you. And I’d like to petition to modify ‘first’ to ‘forever’”. He got down on one knee and took a ring out of his pocket. By this time we were both in tears. I picked him up off his knee and said ‘yes’ so quickly that he didn’t even hear it.

We stood in the gazebo for the next 45 minutes holding each other, telling each other how blessed we were, crying and dancing to the ukelele music that Ofer had specifically requested be played for us. I couldn’t believe that it was happening. I was hoping that sometime on this trip it would happen but I had absolutely no idea that Ofer had any intention of proposing on the first day of the trip.

Then I remembered that I hadn’t even looked at let alone put on the ring. My hands were shaking as he placed the ring on my finger. I was in shock from the engagement alone but seeing the ring blew me away.

Then the meal began. Ofer had arranged a 5 course meal for us. We each had a different dishes and the dishes were chosen specifically for what he believed I would have wanted. The food was incredible, we ate off each other’s plates all night as we talked about our families, our future children and what an amazing thing it was to have found each other.

We danced, we cried, we laughed. The night was perfect.


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